Reverse the hood and screw it on your lens backward. Second, your history of lens damage suggests that you are somewhat unusual. If I don’t have a lens cloth I’ll use almost any soft, clean cloth. People have a variety of ways of cleaning lenses. 2 Add-on s ₹ 469. My gear gets fairly rough time. Robmas4229 Premium Member. Amazon.in: Buy Omax Combo of Lens Hood & UV Filter for Nikon AF-P 18-55mm Lens (55mm) Not for AF-S 18-55mm Lens online at low price in India on Amazon.in. Interesting point of view and, from what I’ve seen, a somewhat unusual experience, Steve. The camera rides inside this bag right in front of me, is very well protected from all kinds of risks (the bag even has a built-in rain cover), yet makes the camera immediately accessible. A filter only will increase chances of flare. – use a lens cap – it may seem like a bother at first, but you’ll soon become so used to it that you hardly give it a thought. I’m a big fan of seascapes, but never really did one myself yet. Already experience an object hitting my lens. did the filter save my lens ?? Others note that the cost of replacing a front element is often a lot less than the cost of replacing a lens and that it is competitive with the cost of a good filter, so when you calculate the cost/benefit of the filter you should consider that cost rather than lens replacement cost. Also and perhaps even more importantly, if you are shooting a cropped sensor Canon camera your camera body is not sealed from salt spray… and the internal electronics of the un-sealed camera are likely even more susceptible to damage from salt water than the front element of the lens. Compared to the small likelihood that I’ll suffer a $800 loss from front element damage that might have been prevented by a filter, this cost doesn’t look so attractive as an insurance benefit. what the best way to clean the lenses from dust/ocean spray and etc,and what tools do i have to buy for that mission? I now worry more about scratching my front element with my lens cap than with some foreign body. The cylindrical lens hood is often used with a telephoto lens. Steve, You say ” To make an admittedly imperfect analogy, would you invest half the cost of your car in insurance that would cover some types of damage to the front end only?”, This is indeed a *very* imperfect analogy. I prefer to keep a High Q UV on my expensive Lenses. :-). This can be avoided by shading the lens using a lens hood. I don’t worry about dust either. Lens Hood ET-60 2. The idea is for … Update: In 2019 I acquired a second UV filter… by accident. Proper … (There are quite a few reports of reflected “ghost images” in night photography, for example.). I’ve been very happy that the dust reduction system in my 5D2, and I rarely see more than a few spots – and they usually go away on their own after a few on/off cycles to activate the sensor vibration system. It might make sense to occasionally put a $100 filter on a $2000 lens that becomes sealed with the addition of the filter if you use the lens in an extremely hostile environment – e.g. Assuming that you purchase a filter for each lens you own, once installed you can forget that the filter is there for the most part. But it can be hard to know where to start since there is such a wide variety of camera lens filters out there, including ND filters, polarizing filters, UV filters, FLD filters, and infrared filters. I was shocked. A remaining question: “Does a UV filter degrade my images in any way?” From what I’ve read, a few things are clear, while others are less so. However, most often when we (or “I” anyway) shoot in such places, we aren’t really risking the lens in any significant way. Omax 49mm For Canon Ef 50mm F/1.8 Stm Lens UV Filter. They would rather accept the (rather small) possibility of a scratch on the front element of a lens than possibly reduce the quality of their images, and/or they prefer to protect the lens by using a lens cap and lens hood. Think of a polarizing filter as a pair of sunglasses for your camera lens. Image Quality – A question: “Does reducing ultraviolet light improve my photos?” The answer: “Well, some want you to think so, but almost certainly not.” It turns out that, at least as far as I’ve been able to determine , modern digital camera/lens systems are not sensitive to UV light in the way that film cameras purportedly are/were. For $15, the filter was removed. The lens hood serves a dual purpose—the material shields your lens from excessive light that could cause lens flare or uneven colors and it physically protects your precious lens should it sustain physical trauma. I now use B&W Pro Glass filters about 100.00 per filter and I find no difference in quality with and without a filter but at least these filters will not help to prevent nasty scratches. Well, I always use a lens hood. One of my Lenses rolled out of my bag and on to harsh Beach Rockery. My personal approach is a) don’t obsess over front element cleanliness, b) use a lens cloth and a bit of lens fluid when necessary, and c) if the right stuff isn’t available I’ll carefully clean it with almost any soft, clean cloth. A couple of quick comments. The age old question of “when do I use a lens hood vs. polarizing filter” can be answered only once you understand what they both do for you. This lens hood has a filter thread of 72mm for using filters. 4.5 out of 5 stars 307 #1 Best Seller in Camera Lens Hoods. Hi Dan Just to clarify, the filter on the camera used by staff was abused as over the years it was used by many people and cleaned by many. A lens hood also provides a physical protector to the front of your lens and acts as a “bumper” if you happen to hit your glass against a hard surface. I’m something of a minimalist about this. 58MM Collapsible Rubber Lens Hood for for CANON Rebel T5i T4i T3i T3 T2i T1i XT XTi XSi SL1, CANON EOS 700D 650D 600D 550D 500D 450D 400D 350D 300D 1100D 100D 60D + MagicFiber Microfiber Lens Cleaning Cloth. They can be used with any lens that has a matching thread size (e.g. The other filters are on very expensive lens (only had the lens for about 5 years) and both have saved an expensive front element replacement. You don’t have to worry about vignetting with longer lenses, only the wide angle ones. If you are imagining that you need the insurance of a UV filter, then you certainly must also be purchasing a real insurance policy on your gear, right? Don’t believe me? I’m relatively careful with my gear, carrying camera and lenses in padded cases for the most part and using lens caps and hoods, and I purchase professional photographer’s camera equipment insurance. 1,533. Better yet, ask an unbiased observer to inspect them. I wouldn’t grind away at it too hard, but that is common sense. Alvin, that starts to blend over into a discussion of the purpose of lenses and how/why we value them. If clumsiness is a problem, or accidental damage is likely, then an attached lens cap cover is far more sensible than choosing what make/brand of UV filter to use. They continue to produce excellent image quality with no signs of degradation whatsoever. The main advantages are said to be twofold: some reduction of haze that is invisible to the human eye but which the camera purportedly might register, and some protection for the front element of your lens. It’s windy and you’re using a tripod (a lens hood could catch the wind). I’m perplexed by your report that champagne permanently damaged the front element of a lens. 99 After using a “regular old 5D” for two years and becoming very adept at monthly sensor cleaning sessions… I have yet to have to clean the 5D2 after a year and a half of use in environments ranging from desert to mountains to seashore. thanks :). (This has become one of the most-read articles at this site. Quote; … When I start moving again, the hand automatically grabs the lens cap and puts it back on. While there are stories of lens accidents that resulted in damaged filters and (relatively) undamaged lenses, there are also stories of broken filter shards damaging lenses, and some filter-damaging impacts would not have affected the lens if a hood had been installed or a lens cap had been attached. To cite one specific problem that we frequently see, internal reflections between the front element of the lens and the flat rear surface of the filter frequently cause “ghost” images in night photography. 3.9 (79) ₹199. Also, if you think you continue to see a slightly less than utterly perfect result at the end of your cleaning, let it go. A lens hood might cast a visible shadow. A good protection filter is better than relying on a lens hood when out and about, or than relying on a jumble of clothes when jamming a lens into a suitcase (don't pretend you've never done it). Think of it as a late Christmas gift: a series of circular filters and a special lens hood for the brand new Nikkor Z 14-24mm F2.8S lens. The right image below shows a 72mm filter mounted in the lens hood. Since I am often using a polarizing filter that is my “UV” filter replacement. But I am a bit “careless” in my handling of my equipment and have been known to lean over and bonk my 40D on a rock or have it swing into my tripod as I shuttle things around. Fairer would be to ask would be “Would you invest $90 for insurance that would cover some types of damage for your $1,500 lens?”. Anton, you bring up two of the general sorts of concerns often mentioned by those who believe that using a “protective” UV filter is worthwhile: that salt spray is an issue when shooting along the seashore and that stuff (spilled wine, greasy fingers, etc) might get on the front element of the lens. However, when I tried some sample shots without a UV filter, I discovered a remarkable difference in the image quality – it was much better and colour saturation seemed truer to life. A lens hood is a bit like a hat for a camera lens. Many people don’t know what they are or what to do with them, so I’m happy you asked this question. Lens hoods won't protect against sand and grit scratching the front element of a lens; protective filters will. I addressed that to some extent in my original post – both in regards to what a filter can and cannot protect for, the cost/benefit analysis of buying high quality filters for all of your lenses, the potential that shards from a smashed filter itself could damage the front end, the advisability of using lens hoods, and the choice to invest funds that might be spent on a filter on actual insurance that covers a wider range of possible losses instead. color: #fff;
There were many “real” professional photographers in Jackson, Wyoming at the time I worked at Mountain Camera. I keep a filter on that, so that I can confidently sell it on ebay in the best condition possible…. After reading this I am going to take my uv filter off. They are not my cup of tea I’ll stay with the standard JJC/Hoage reduction lens hood and no filter. A lens hood that screws into the threads of your camera lens will more than likely not support a polarizing filter—the threads will be in use, thereby giving your filter nowhere to screw into. The lens has since had its shares of hits and bangs, (without a filter nor a hood), but it is still in great condition, optically, with no lens scratches (but obvious barrel damage). First, they clean far more often than necessary. In other words, rather than sticking one on the lens and leaving it there, consider adding one temporarily on rare occasions when the perceived advantages may outweigh the disadvantages. What is the likelihood that you will damage one of your lenses in a such a way that the filter would have saved it? Their glass polarizing filter is almost three times as much as many of the other options online. I don’t own any UV filters* and I can think of darned few situations in which I’d want to use one. Both of these can damage your lens, so if you are in a desert and the wind is picking sand, you can place a filter to sacrifice it instead of damaging your lens. 1 Item ₹ 8,835. I have found that good quality filters have little negative effect on the captured image. (That is a bit hard for me to imagine…) Is it a choice of a filter versus no protection or of a filter versus cap/hood? And while dust on the lens is not likely to be visible in a photograph (in fact, some people worry way too much about this), if it would be visible it would be more so on a filter that places it a bit further in front to the lens and closer to the focus point. 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